Balik Pulau literally means “the other side of the island.” It’s a small town about 20 km from Georgetown, far enough away that most people don’t go there. Except for true durian lovers.
I’d received a promotional flyer that advertised a durian festival in Balik Pulau. Miss Nadia Ali, a
representative of Penang State Tourism Department, warned me that we
wouldn’t find much. “It’s really just a gimmick to get people to buy durian,” she admitted, “to support the
farmers in Balik Pulau, because nobody goes there.” All of the durians
on Penang are grown in the mountainous region between Balik Pulau and
Teluk Bahang, in the northeastern corner of the island. Most of these
durians are gathered in the mornings and shuttled fresh to Georgetown on
trucks. The 45-60 minute drive is windy, slow, and riddled with people
passing on blind curves. Only the truly obsessed venture all the way to
Balik Pulau to get their durian fix.
representative of Penang State Tourism Department, warned me that we
wouldn’t find much. “It’s really just a gimmick to get people to buy durian,” she admitted, “to support the
farmers in Balik Pulau, because nobody goes there.” All of the durians
on Penang are grown in the mountainous region between Balik Pulau and
Teluk Bahang, in the northeastern corner of the island. Most of these
durians are gathered in the mornings and shuttled fresh to Georgetown on
trucks. The 45-60 minute drive is windy, slow, and riddled with people
passing on blind curves. Only the truly obsessed venture all the way to
Balik Pulau to get their durian fix.
We are the
truly obsessed. While there are plenty of durians to eat in Georgetown, we wanted to get to the source. When last week we arrived in Balik Pulau around midnight, we
discovered that it may be the place for daytime durian tourism,
there are no hotels. Later I found out about Upeh Inn, (you can email them to make a reservation) but at 50 RM a night, we preferred to stay in a cheaper guesthouse in Georgetown and commute over the mountains. So although we’d been told there might not be much going on, we boarded a bus back to the Other Side, this time with our friend Chris, intent on finding the “Durian Festival.”
truly obsessed. While there are plenty of durians to eat in Georgetown, we wanted to get to the source. When last week we arrived in Balik Pulau around midnight, we
discovered that it may be the place for daytime durian tourism,
there are no hotels. Later I found out about Upeh Inn, (you can email them to make a reservation) but at 50 RM a night, we preferred to stay in a cheaper guesthouse in Georgetown and commute over the mountains. So although we’d been told there might not be much going on, we boarded a bus back to the Other Side, this time with our friend Chris, intent on finding the “Durian Festival.”
After a beautiful, if nauseating, bus ride we found ourselves at our first stop for the day, Balik Pulau’s New Market. The New Market is a
large, cream colored complex located adjacent the bus station. It
looked totally dead as we approached it, with only a few cars and motorcycles in
the parking lot. Inside a lonely fruit vendor greeted us. She was selling a myriad of
fruits but not durian. We paused to check out her nutmeg fruits, which we had
never seen before.
large, cream colored complex located adjacent the bus station. It
looked totally dead as we approached it, with only a few cars and motorcycles in
the parking lot. Inside a lonely fruit vendor greeted us. She was selling a myriad of
fruits but not durian. We paused to check out her nutmeg fruits, which we had
never seen before.
 |
| Beautiful! And it really smells like nutmeg! |
I showed her
the Durian Festival flier. She looked confused, and told us that yes, this was
the New Market, but she didn’t know about a Durian Festival. She pointed to the
back of the building and said there was durian back there. We started
meandering down the deserted and shuttered hallway, not sure what we would
find. And then – yes! the heavy and unmistakeable odor of durian hit our
nostrils. We were on the right track.
the Durian Festival flier. She looked confused, and told us that yes, this was
the New Market, but she didn’t know about a Durian Festival. She pointed to the
back of the building and said there was durian back there. We started
meandering down the deserted and shuttered hallway, not sure what we would
find. And then – yes! the heavy and unmistakeable odor of durian hit our
nostrils. We were on the right track.
Around the
corner we found a single open durian storefront, the hallway littered with durians.
This obscure little store was obviously a popular joint. Families and friends crowded around the two folding tables, while a line issued
out of the store. Everyone was surprised to see us.
corner we found a single open durian storefront, the hallway littered with durians.
This obscure little store was obviously a popular joint. Families and friends crowded around the two folding tables, while a line issued
out of the store. Everyone was surprised to see us.
“You
like durian?” they asked us. We said yes (of course!), and they crowded around to talk. Most people were from the area, here to pick up their favorite durian
from their favorite stall, but several had come a little farther for the fruit. One family had driven over the mountain from
Georgetown for an afternoon outing, and another couple were Asian-Australians who
had taken the opportunity to visit family during durian season.
like durian?” they asked us. We said yes (of course!), and they crowded around to talk. Most people were from the area, here to pick up their favorite durian
from their favorite stall, but several had come a little farther for the fruit. One family had driven over the mountain from
Georgetown for an afternoon outing, and another couple were Asian-Australians who
had taken the opportunity to visit family during durian season.
I asked
why they were buying durian here instead of at one of the stalls lining
the street in front of the bus station. They replied that the quality here was
better, and one lady suggested the price was a little cheaper too. The group suggested
that we let the durian boss pick one for us, and we obliged. It was well past
lunch time, and I was hungry.
why they were buying durian here instead of at one of the stalls lining
the street in front of the bus station. They replied that the quality here was
better, and one lady suggested the price was a little cheaper too. The group suggested
that we let the durian boss pick one for us, and we obliged. It was well past
lunch time, and I was hungry.
The not quite smiling
durian boss, who obviously found our patronage amusing, selected a Hor Lor. A small, lumpy green durian, it didn’t look particularly appealing. The
whole thing cost 12 RM ($4), which seemed expensive for such a tiny,
unappealing green spike ball. The crowd encouraged me to trust him, so I did.
durian boss, who obviously found our patronage amusing, selected a Hor Lor. A small, lumpy green durian, it didn’t look particularly appealing. The
whole thing cost 12 RM ($4), which seemed expensive for such a tiny,
unappealing green spike ball. The crowd encouraged me to trust him, so I did.
He chose well. An incredibly thick sticky cream, this durian was peanut butter
frosting. I felt like a dog with a gob of peanut butter in its mouth just
trying to swallow. The flavor was nuanced with hints of bitter dark chocolate and cream cheese. Rob proclaimed it his favorite durian so far on Penang.
frosting. I felt like a dog with a gob of peanut butter in its mouth just
trying to swallow. The flavor was nuanced with hints of bitter dark chocolate and cream cheese. Rob proclaimed it his favorite durian so far on Penang.
 |
| This cat may have had too much durian… đ |
Now we were even hungrier, but at $4 a pop, this petite lopsided durian wasn’t
going to make an affordable meal. Thankfully, 118 Durian sold cheap Kampungs
too! We purchased 5 of the small jungle durians for only 10 RM, and meandered off to a
creek side to eat. Then we spotted them – tall, gorgeous durian trees on the other bank! We
jumped across and wandered into somebody’s orchard. Most of the durians were tied up, but one had rolled down the steep hill to the
creek. Rob picked it up, and we crept back across the water into the shade
of some banana trees to enjoy a late lunch.
going to make an affordable meal. Thankfully, 118 Durian sold cheap Kampungs
too! We purchased 5 of the small jungle durians for only 10 RM, and meandered off to a
creek side to eat. Then we spotted them – tall, gorgeous durian trees on the other bank! We
jumped across and wandered into somebody’s orchard. Most of the durians were tied up, but one had rolled down the steep hill to the
creek. Rob picked it up, and we crept back across the water into the shade
of some banana trees to enjoy a late lunch.
The banana grove was shady and peaceful, except for the rustling of a giant
monitor lizard across the creek! We stared at the moving bushes, wondering what
on earth could be making such a racket until the lizard appeared on a bare spot
on the bank, all 6 feet of him, and then slowly meandered away. The lizard was more exciting than our meal. Most of the durians were misses, either unripe and hard or overripe and nearly alcoholic, but Rob’s find was perfect.
monitor lizard across the creek! We stared at the moving bushes, wondering what
on earth could be making such a racket until the lizard appeared on a bare spot
on the bank, all 6 feet of him, and then slowly meandered away. The lizard was more exciting than our meal. Most of the durians were misses, either unripe and hard or overripe and nearly alcoholic, but Rob’s find was perfect.
Next on our Balik Pulau checklist was the row of stalls in front of the bus
station. As we walked along, I realized that the name of Store 118, the New Market stall, was no oddity – all the stalls had a number for a name! I stopped and asked a vendor, a rail thin Indian man clenching a cigarette
between his teeth, why the stalls were numbered. He said they were
registered with the Penang State Government. Durian is serious business here!
station. As we walked along, I realized that the name of Store 118, the New Market stall, was no oddity – all the stalls had a number for a name! I stopped and asked a vendor, a rail thin Indian man clenching a cigarette
between his teeth, why the stalls were numbered. He said they were
registered with the Penang State Government. Durian is serious business here!
 |
| Love this guy’s glasses |
Luckily, we were already full from our lunch with the lizard, and werenât
even tempted by these pricy but delicious looking durians. We hopped back on
the bus up the hill to Anjung Indah, a panorama point where the
Penang State Government has chosen to host the âDurian Festival,â or the “Pesta Durian” in Malaysian. From the mountain top we looked out through the thick haze, over the slopes of the
jungle leading back down to Balik Pulau town, now spread below us, and beyond that to the sun low over the
shining sea.
even tempted by these pricy but delicious looking durians. We hopped back on
the bus up the hill to Anjung Indah, a panorama point where the
Penang State Government has chosen to host the âDurian Festival,â or the “Pesta Durian” in Malaysian. From the mountain top we looked out through the thick haze, over the slopes of the
jungle leading back down to Balik Pulau town, now spread below us, and beyond that to the sun low over the
shining sea.
The festival site was nearly deserted, except for a dozen
businessmen and women from Kuala Lumpur who were here on a company outing. For
most of the vendors there, it was their first time participating in the
festival. I asked Yen, the vendor of 668 Durian, if she thought it was financially
worth it to sell durian on this remote hillside. She was unsure. This was her first year to participate, and since the mornings were slow she was also selling durian
in Balik Pulau town. Her husband works another stall at the Straits Quay mall in
Georgetown.
 |
| I love the little dancing durian icon! |
Though we weren’t actually hungry, a picture of a dark, nearly red durian captured
our attention. We asked Yen about it, and she grabbed a round, pear
shaped durian with tiny spikes. This one didnât have a name, but she said it
was indeed red. We agreed to give it a try, partly because I felt obliged after she was kind enough to answer my many questions, although at 30 RM ($10!!) for one fruit,
this was now our most expensive durian.
our attention. We asked Yen about it, and she grabbed a round, pear
shaped durian with tiny spikes. This one didnât have a name, but she said it
was indeed red. We agreed to give it a try, partly because I felt obliged after she was kind enough to answer my many questions, although at 30 RM ($10!!) for one fruit,
this was now our most expensive durian.
It may be my favorite durian. At first mild and unremarkable, the flavor
came in at the second and third bites and kept growing. Strong and coffee like,
while yet sweet and fruity, this durian had that strange effect of making us
feel high. We were all feeling pretty silly by our second piece! What is it in
some durians that does this?
came in at the second and third bites and kept growing. Strong and coffee like,
while yet sweet and fruity, this durian had that strange effect of making us
feel high. We were all feeling pretty silly by our second piece! What is it in
some durians that does this?
As we finished our last durian for the day, we enjoyed the view of the sun beginning to set behind the hazy horizon. What a nice day in Penang!
If you are the truly obsessed, here’s a map of Balik Pulau town to aid your own adventure on the Other Side.
UBJ Again says
I also found many posts warning not to combine durian and alcohol. Apparently, Durian inhibits the chemical that allows your body to process and clear alcohol from your system. This combination can make you very sick and even cause death.
Uncle BJ says
I'm not sure of the scientific integrity but I did find an article online that claimed Durian contains tryptophans, which help reduce anxiety, depression and insomnia. It also claimed eating durian creates a feeling of happiness by increasing levels of serotonin in the brain and is also supposed to be a first-class aphrodisiac.
http://www.parfumsgarden.com/durian-delicious-nutritious