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From left: Olivia, John, Terra, and Chris feasting on durian |
Chanthaburi, Thailand has a reputation among fruit fanatics as the place to go in May. A lot of this hype is thanks to our friend Harley, a.k.a durianrider, who has been touting the wonders of Chanthaburi’s fruit to his following of fruit freaks on youtube (and 30bad). The fame is well deserved as the province grows nearly 50% of durians produced for export in Thailand, and a surplus of mangosteen, jack fruit, rambutan, and other tropical fruits which are shipped all over the world.
The city is a typical Asian city far off the tourist map. The handful of hotels are gathered along one street of the old town, and almost no one here speaks much English. But every April the westerners begin trickling in to settle before the Chanthaburi World Fruit Festival, sometimes referred to as the World Durian Festival because of the prevalence of durian. Many are here on Harley’s referral, and all are here for the durian. The locals must think all westerners are a very strange bunch of fruit-bats!
With all the durians in the area, you can guess why we’re here. But being fruit freaks ourselves, we are more than happy to indulge in the abundance of other tropical fruits and enjoy the company of others who share our fruit fixation.
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Terra |
Durian tastes best with company. At least this is what I have found. It’s a gooey, messy party food, and not a recommended experience for the germaphobic. High in tryptophan and other feel-happy chemicals, I think sharing a durian is a bit like having a beer with a few friends. It’s not as much fun to drink if your friends don’t partake, and the same holds true for durian. All my best durian experiences have been with groups of people who enjoy the fruit as much as I do. So after a day out in the durian fields, I was very pleased to be able to share some special varieties with others who really appreciate the uniqueness and variation among durians.
Rob and I spent the day visiting an experimental plot with Dr. Songpol Somsri, a durian breeder for the Chanthaburi Horticultural Research Center. After a morning wandering his 100 acre durian orchard, we were sent home with five experimental hybrids to test out on our new friends.
Two were a cross between a popular Thai commercial variety, Kradumthong, and a thornless native to the Philippines. Dr. Songpol warned us that he couldn’t guarantee these would be tasty, but that we would have to try them out. He also gave us a monthong-chanee hybrid that was more reliably tasty.
So how’d the durians stack up?
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Kradumthong crossed with Philippine thornless durian = not yummy |
Sorry, Dr. Songpol. Your Kradumthong-thornless hybrid was a flop. It’s shockingly green exterior cracked open to expose surprisingly pale, snowy white flesh. It emitted an odor that Tarah compared to goats cheese. It’s flesh was soft, the texture smooth, but it totally lacking sweetness. We tried another with a similar exterior. Same thing. The Chanee-Monthong was much better, with daisy-yellow flesh, a slightly fibrous texture, and a sweet and nutty flavor.
We also had a few durian from the local market, including a Puangmanee that everyone agreed on was the best of the lot. A deep yellow-orange fleshed durian with a very strong flavor, this durian is usually shipped to Malaysia as the Thais prefer a milder fruit that lacks the odoriferous punch of the Puangmanee. This fruit had us oohing and aahing. Too bad they were so tiny!
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Chris Randall, from Real Raw Results.com |
Sharing a durian with friends is a special experience, and I recommend everyone try it. More people will be coming in a few weeks for the festival, which runs from May 4th to May 13th this year. It’s not too late join us!
Read more about our visit with Dr. Songpol and his experimental durians in the next post!
Anonymous says
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hub. 087839145118
Richard G. says
Hi Rob and Lindsay!
Cool Blog you have going!
Cynthia and I are very excited to see you two and feast on good fruit, especially DURIAN!
hugs
Richard
Anonymous says
Aloha all fruit lovers here at "year of the durian"… I am traveling through sountheast asia, currently in Sumatera (wild durian growing everywhere) and on my way to Trat before hitting Chantaburi for the festival. I would love to connect with you all there. I have an eight acre tropical fruit homestead on "Big Island" of Hawaii and so I am very involved with gardening and I grow hundreds of fruit trees. I have been traveling now for the past two months… would love to spend the next 30 days with likeminded people… sharing a lot of fruit hauls together. PLEASE FACEBOOK ME AT: PUNA FORAGER
Anonymous says
hi – hope you get to see more of the province; you seem rather dismissive, it is far from 'typical Asian' – a rich history, was occupied by France until 1906 (military barracks and prison to view at Laem Sing where their departure is celebrated in Feb each year), has the highest % population of Christians in Thailand (check out the Catholic cathedral by the river in Chantaboon), large % of the people are Chinese and Vietnamese descent, once the biggest ruby and sapphire mining centre in the world and still many sapphire mines operating around Ploy Waen; on the coast at Chao Lao you'll find over 100 holiday resorts – recent weekends they have all been full and this will continue past Songkran. Visit the ecological Royal Development Centre at Khung Kraben (3km north Chao Lao) – huge mangrove and seagrass restoration in the hope of rebuilding the dugong population. National Marine Archaeological Centre inside the 1834 fortress at Noen Wong . . . so much to see/do
Rob says
Hey Anonymous,
Thanks for the info about the province. It was not the province, though, but the city of Chanthaburi that Lindsay referred to as typical. The downtown doesn't stand out from other similarly sized cities – it is pretty modern and noisy. We do enjoy the lake park, the ornate Buddhist temples, street markets, and ogling at gems through shop windows. And while it's true that the catholic cathedral is anything but typical for asia, it also isn't really impressive other than for being out of place. Thanks again for your feedback – glad to hear the surrounding areas hold some interesting attractions.
Lindsay says
And we have a comment box! Hooray!