Very few people visit Kalimantan, the forgotten Indonesian side of Borneo which actually comprises nearly two-thirds of the island. Huge and sparsely populated, with the largest tracks
of virgin rainforest left on the island, Kalimantan is still relatively
unexplored, which means there’s very little information about where to go and
what to see (the best reference is Lazlo’s Kalimantan Guide).
For those of us trying to figure out where to go for durian, it’s a blank map. We spent hours
and hours on the internet plugging in every search term we could think of and
coming up empty.
Fortunately, eleven months down the durian trail we’ve had the time to do our homework and make some contacts. With so much territory to cover via Indonesian transportation (read: really slow and smoky), we’ve decided to focus our time and energy in one smallish area, the
province of West Kalimantan on the border of Malaysia.
So we’ve launched ourselves into inland Borneo, taking a plane from Kuching to Pontianak, and
then an 18 hour bus ride up to Putussibau, a frontier town on the upper Kapuas
River where orangutans still roam the forest, the native people retain their
traditional way of life, and there is only one internet café with a dodgy
connection (from which I am writing this post).
|Pontianak city street|